Shadowex3

I bought an mx510 around when they first came out, it's still on the computer behind me. The 518's main difference is software and a few better parts that let its DPI go higher. Thing is the 518 is a pretty old mouse, and the deathadder from what I've seen is $50. I'd say the deathadder is more fairly compared to the G5 rev2 (which I've also been using almost since they came out) than the mx518.

Did you not read the thread? Did you not notice the £ signs instead of $ signs? Did you not notice he mentioned the price before and after VAT? He's in the UK, he can't buy stuff from newegg.

6th grade getting let out at the end of the day is the best example of what zombie escape is like you could ever ask for. Racism, porn, people getting in the way and being douchebags, and lots of swearing and running.

Guys he's in the UK, that's why he keeps using the pound symbol for prices. tweezy: Sempron's like 4 years old man, that's almost an $60 processor in the US.

They're both just low end quadcores (4mb l2 cache instead of the full 12mb) with for some reason 8gb of ram and a really low end videocard. Here's a $705 build off newegg, pick your own case. I recommend something that only uses 120mm fans and comes with fans like a cooler master Elite series midtowers. http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16814143140 http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16820227267 http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16817139004 http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16819115041 http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16822136359 http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16813131375 Q9550 quadcore, GTX 260 graphics card, 4gb of good ram, 750gb good hdd, good quality asus mobo, kickass power supply. At $705 you should have plenty of $$$ left in your budget to pick a decent case. Don't go for flashy, go for function. Trust me on this. Those side windows and lights look cool to begin with but eventually you'll be wishing you went for something with good ventilation, easy to clean design, a good toolless mounting system, and no sharp internal edges.

Then find a cheap one that reviews well at JG. A gtx 250 should be runnable on 500watts with about 30amps on the 12v rail, if you find one of the antecs that was OEMed by seasonic your good.

I've said it before I'll say it again, pick your power supply using these reviews. A $60 600watt psu to me SCREAMS letting the magic smoke out of a computer.

Also if your on newegg's newsletter, which you absolutely should be, you can get a 550vx for only $80 right now. BEFORE the $20 mail in rebate.

Eh, compare it to the higher end intel dualcores because that's how amazingly underpowered most of the phenom quads are. Also if you can maybe a gigabyte board rather than MSI. Also the 550vx, more power supply than even a gtx 295 will ever use, is currently only $80 from newegg if your on their newsletter. DO EET.

For some reason now that I've read that I can't see your avatar as anything other than the between-the-thighs view of a woman wearing panties.

Gigabyte makes good simple boards. Asus has all the enthusiast and gaming features like much better heatsinks for the important bits, vdroop countering ("load line calibration"), 8+phase power, automatically fixing botched overclocks and their Qfan stuff. Plus they all come with this little thingy you plug your case's front panel stuff onto that is LABELLED CLEARLY and then that slides onto the mobo as one big block. SO much easier than plugging in those damned wires by hand.

cl_showfps 2 sometime (1 is just the counter, 2 is highest and lowest reached and the counter) and then turn on your flashlight. It makes fuck all of a diff to everyone else because they'll only ever see your flashlight drawn as this ass-odd cone of white fog that doesnt really affect the environment but you get an fps hit.

It's not just about that, corsairs are just plain better in empirical testing. If you absolutely must get a OCZ or some other off-brand try and get one that jonnyguru.com recommends with an 8 or higher because corsairs/seasonics/pc p&p's are at least that good. Also Asus gets rated low on newegg, true, but so far their P45's were pretty much the biggest choice at OCforums for c2d builds before X48 and the like came out. 8 phase power and vdroop counters will do good things for your mobo, plus like I said they've got better cooling. Gigabyte's not bad but if you can get better within your budget why get worse?

Asus is in general better mobos for enthusiast/gaming use than gigabyte due to better on-board cooling and power workings, and dude pay the extra $20 get a corsair or seasonic PSU. The 550 (with some 40+amps on the 12v rail!) ought to be more than enough.

Poorly. At lowest settings. L4d's a LOT harsher than most all hl2 engine games because you've got a shitton of polys on screen with the zombies and you almost always have valve's terribly coded flashlight on which gives even my overcompensating rig a -10fps drop.

Sounds almost like you were trying to play back a timedemo or something.

Firstly go ahead and make it a choice between C2Q and i7, the Q9000 quads are cheap enough that its not really logical to get a dualcore anymore. Nvidia chipsets... they're just not worth it. Sli has been proven time and again to not be economically viable or even logical compared to saving and upgrading more often and their actual mobo quality is really lacking compared to Asus or even gigabyte. That being said if he isn't ever playing the latest and greatest games like Crysis Wars, Farcry 2 and the like your better off getting him an Asus p45 board with the usual 4gb of ram and a gtx 260 or 275. As for the mobo differences the number usually means whether its a micro-atx or fullsized ATX board and whether it's got onboard graphics or not. In general matx boards will have an onboard graphics chipset while normal ATX boards won't. You've already basically done everything you need to do to build a computer from the ground up, you just haven't done it all together. It's not that difficult just pretty time-consuming, especially the very first time when you need to get all the mobo mounts and everything screwed into the case. In general your best build sequence after verifying all the parts are the right ones before opening them is: 1. Unpack the case and get it all set up, mobo spacers screwed in, fans mounted etc 2. Put the PSU in and slide the drives into the bays. Plug the PSU into the wall (path to ground!) 3. Mount the mobo with the backplate for your heatsink in place. Plug in the mobo. 4. Stick the PSU into the now grounded mobo and mount the heatsink 5. expansion cards 6. cords. Unlike what you've worked on before these are all fresh parts, they'll prolly take a bit more force than you're used to and comfortable using. This stuff's made out of layered fiberglass, it's tougher than you think. [edit] Forgot some helpful linkies: Cpu charts High and Midrange VGA charts newegg is where you want to buy most parts obv and SVC is the best place to get fans and heatsinks from. Yate Loon fans are known for being quiet and moving decent amounts of air, 120mm fans are always better than smaller fans, Noctuas are overpriced underpowered POS fans that are utterly silent, and Delta fans are called "screamers" for a reason.

http://www.trojancondoms.com/Product/FreeSample.aspx ^^^ for anyone else that wants one too.

Logitech G19 keyboard and G500 mouse. Also the x-fi's HRTF is amazing for gaming, srsly, I can tell where someone is AND whether they're above or below me most of the time just using headphones.

6gb in 2gb sticks gives you 3x2gb, and nehalem uses triple channel DDR3. That's one 2gb stick for each channel, the sweetspot. Sure you can up it to 3x4gb for 12gb of ram total but honestly if you're being stubborn and rich why are you not also buying wicked awesome surroundsound (zx5500) or headphones (hd595) and a top end x-fi rather than ram youll never use? Spend the extra on something made of win.

Dude 12gb of ram is insane, just knock it down to 6 (3 sticks of 2gb preferrably) and spend the extra on a soundcard or something.

Same port?