Shadowex3

Try opening the menu sometime. It usually stays onscreen when you try to close it, and the few times it does go away you generally wind up unable to move or look around.

Is anything he can get in the $60 range even better than the 6800 he's already got? The 6800 was at least a real gaming card in it's day, most of these suggestions aren't.

Ram takes almost no power, the monitor and speaker system don't draw power from the computer, and the processor really only needs a few volts. Modern powersupplies pretty much exist solely for the sake of the graphics card and hard drives. Three hard drives spinning up at once puts a pretty harsh strain on a weak psu, and like I said even if it only needs a handful of real watts the amps that a modern graphics card draws on the 12v rail is insane. This isn't so much about how good your gpu is as how efficient it is. a GTX 200 series will actually pound for pound be more efficient than the bloated over-siliconned 9000 series.

Actually those numbers are BS. I ran the equivalent (or worse) of those cards on 300w PSUs before. If you've got a REAL powersupply from someone like corsair, seasonic, or those names I keep repeating in every graphics card thread you'll never need more than ~520watts even for SLI. Videocards don't need tons of wattage, even the highest end system anandtech could build only drew 300ish watts from the wall when it was under full load. It's the amps on the 12v rail that your psu can deliver that are the deciding factor. As for the ones you've got, and getting a new PSU... those graphics cards suck so much you're honestly really better off waiting until you can afford a real upgrade and saving your money than buying those.

The only thing AA2 honor meant was that you were good at fucking over your team by lonewolfing, deathmatching, and avoiding dying even if it meant losing the round. Basically everyone us stupid "Obj nubs" didn't do because we were preoccupied with completing objectives. Why yes, I AM a bitter vet whose been playing since before honor was added...

You're putting teflon tape over teflon feet dude, those feet that come with mice by default ARE teflon. And yeah icemat's just frosted glass, really well polished glass, but it's not anywhere near as slick as you can get with a Teflon coated woven synthetic pad.

It's just frosted glass, go to Home Depot and buy some for less than icemat costs. Plus lasers and optical mice tend to randomly lose it and hate glass. And the reason the teflon tape they give you doesn't do much is because mice have been using PTFE (polytetrafluoroethylene=teflon) feet for a long damn time, so putting more teflon on a mouse just gives it a larger surface area and thus more friction. I use a generic wetsuit-material office depot mousepad that's longer than my forearm+hand and almost as wide and I still rape sideways. If you've just GOT to have a fancy mousepad though get something like These where the entire mousepad is basically one giant piece of teflon with a slight surface-area reducing texture and you'll pretty much be waving your mouse around in the air.

There's another thread about this right below yours, all the information you could want or need is in that one >.>

Alternatively if you've got a little speaker icon in your system tray next to the clock you can just use that to get to volumes. For the record in that same set of volume controls "wav" will actually control the volume of wav files that are played, so you can adjust game sounds without adjusting the overall volume or the volume of mic talk. Lets you turn down game sounds relative to other things basically.

logitech's new meece are basically just showcases for their new mousewheel tech.

Keep in mind DPI doesn't really mean much because at some point you're going to run out of the ability to send that data to the computer and process it AND because it's not DPI you're after but 1:1 movement. The reason I pull such crazy shit sometimes is because I can move my mouse literally 1 screen pixel at a time at my sensitivity of choice. Theoretically a higher DPI just lets you achieve that at what feels like a higher sensitivity.

Mice it's about the technical specs and more importantly what is most comfortable for you. I like my g5 but I know people that use $10 microsoft opticals that keep up with me because of how amazingly well it fits their hand. Keyboards are kinda the same but there's another step. You want something that is comfortable to type on, then there's the features (g15's macro keys/screen) and lastly the construction of the keys. Afaik only steelseries and a few select retro boards also have is actual honest to game mechanical keyswitches instead of a rubber dome pressure switch. Mechanical keyboards last almost forever, the keys will work consistently every time, and they can provide a much greater variety of tactile feedback whether you prefer having a little "float" before a keypress is triggered sharply or a smooth press all the way down. Either way barring you breaking it somehow that switch will trigger at the same time every time. Following ^^that IBM bucking spring keyboards have a little startup pressure, some float, and a smooth barely noticeable increase in pressure until the spring buckles and hits the switch. The g15 has a higher startup pressure and very quick triggers with a slightly more exaggerated release in pressure just barely before the key is triggered and a very quick snap back, mostly because it's actually a hybrid with rubber dome switches but mechanical keys. It's kindof a bastard child that works fairly well. The downside is that only the really crazy expensive mechanicals have full anti-ghosting, which means you can hit all the keys you want without them cutting out. Hard to hold that against keyboards though since it's not really THEIR problem but they get blamed for it. Below that you'll get certain combinations and less than ~5-8 keys working.

This man is TCP. He is hitler to cookies and french fries.

Afaik the zboard, like most every "gaming" keyboard out there, is a rubber dome keyboard rather than a mechanical keyboard. It really does make a huge difference, most people I've let try out either my g15 or old IBM buckling spring keyboard don't want to go back to non-mechanicals afterwards. That's the real selling point of the g15 imho, even the supposed multi-press-safe keyboards aren't worth it if those keys feel like squishing old jellybeans.

Logitech mx518 is the little brother to the logitech G5, 1600dpi to the G5's 2000. I personally heartily recommend the G5 for a mouse but if you're a lefty or fingertip gripper then you might like Razrs offerings more. For keyboards any mechanical keyswitch keyboard that is physically comfortable for you to use is best, the g15 fits into this but I don't know about the rest of the so called "gaming" keyboards. Headphones are tricky. Ignore anything USB since itll just need to be converted back to analog anyway plus your soundcard will be useless then. Anything that claims 5.1 or "surround" sound... think about it, to fit that many sound-drivers into headphones they'd need to basically be a bunch of ipod earbuds crammed in there so compared to a REAL set of headphones the sound quality will suck. I'd say for sound+mic get a seperate microphone for like $10, clipons are good and so are logitech's standup ones. If you get a g5 that's basically $30-40, if you get a gaming keyboard that's easily the other $100. I'd suggest holding off on the keyboard in favor of getting a good mouse and some Amazing headphones and then getting the keyboard later. A good set of headphones, REAL headphones, will easily last you for as long as you can avoid physically damaging them.

At least we know the difference between latin and english. There's no such thing as a split infinitive in a language where infinitives are not a single word.

Yeah, get a closed and super-restricted mediocre phone that is basically controlled by a megalomaniacal third party even down to what programs you can install and when you can use them whose only real selling point is "ZOMGTOUCHSCREEN!" and an apple logo.

Blackberry bold's got a ridiculously fast processor and loads of onboard space, good screen, not too big, full QWERTY keyboard, and being a blackberry you can pretty much do whatever the hell you want with it. They talk about how with iphones "theres an app for that"? They're actually referring to blackberries. Ofc if you dont have a dataplan YOU ARE NO MAAAAAN!

True Multiple GPUs are NEVER worth it. You almost always wind up spending far more on motherboards, power supplies, cooling stuff, a case that can FIT two graphics cards and soundcards/hdds/heatsinks than you would if you got one solid mid to high end card and socked away the rest for another upgrade in a year or two, and the same performance as well. I'd say get either a GTX 260 core 216 or a GTX 275, mostly because ATIs only better offering is a two-cards-one-board style strange beast and also because THREE nvidia manufacturers offer 24/7 live tech support and have awesome lifetime warranties. Afaik nobody on the ATI side does that yet.

Mean is trying to give us the E-clap.

No, he was a grade A bag of left handed dicks before 2009 even got started. Not as bad as the other panda but up there.

Fuck your hair, my HEAD is a CASTLE!

Wheelchairs and stairs, diabetics, etc.

and nowadays they tend to brick it remotely when you try that.